The public clash came when Santamaria used a presentation at the 2007 edition of Madrid Fusion, an international chef's convention, to launch an attack on the fashionable food movement.
'Can we really be proud of a cuisine that fills plates with gelling agents and laboratory emulsifiers?' he asked referring to inventions like Parmesan snow, warm ice cream and spherified olive gel, that have made a table at Adria's El Bulli the most sought after in the world.
'Cooks should not be preoccupied with creating sculptures or painting pictures with their work,' he went on.'A table is not an art gallery.'
He labelled such chefs as 'a gang of frauds – cooking for snobs' but his criticism was dismissed as the petty jealousies of a traditionalist chef who had had his day."
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